Archive for August, 2011

Beautiful Candle Holders

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Outdoor Candle Holders For You To Make

We have used an old jar that used to have pasta sauce in it for this project. You can use any glass jar that is big enough to hold a candle. The photo below shows how we used an old coffee jar with a different shape.

recycled glass candle holder


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Materials and Equipment

  • Old glass jar
  • String
  • P.V.A. glue or white kids glue
  • Water
  • Old scissors to cut gluey string
  • Lidded container for glue
  • Baby wipe or similar cleaning cloth
  • Paint and brushes(optional)
  • Stones or gravel
  • Candle


Outdoor Candle Holders Instructions

outdoor candle holders 01 You will need to prepare a work area that is easy to clean as glue will go everywhere. Put a tablespoonful of glue into a container and add the same amount of water, stir until the mixture is smooth.
outdoor candle holders 02 Cut off a long piece of string and completely cover it in glue.
outdoor candle holders 03 Start at the bottom of the jar. Create a spiral working from the center. Make sure the string is completely soaked so it sticks to the jar and itself.

You will be able to move the spiral around to get the best position whilst the glue is still wet.

outdoor candle holders 04 Trim the string if necessary. This will make a mess of your scissors but they can be cleaned afterwards. If your piece of string was too short to complete the base just add more until it is all covered.
outdoor candle holders 05 Start adding spirals to the sides of the jar. Make sure the string is completely soaked.
outdoor candle holders 06 Add as many spirals as you can without damaging the work you have already done. While the string is still wet the spirals can be moved around to get the best positions. Don’t forget to leave an opening on one side for the light of the candle to shine through. Leave overnight to dry. Put the lid on your glue container so that you can use it next time.
outdoor candle holders 07 You will now be able to put the jar down on the base while you finish it off. Continue working more spirals and wrap string around the top part of the jar to give it a neat finish.
outdoor candle holders 08 Fill in the gaps between the spirals with short lengths of string.

Leave the jar to dry completely before decorating.

outdoor candle holders 09 Once the string is completely dry you can paint it if you want to. Clean the glue off of the front of the glass jar using a baby wipe or similar cloth cleaner.

We have put stones in the bottom of the jar for the candle to rest on. The photo below shows the candle holder from different sides.

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recycled glass jar candle holder

We have used artists acrylic paint to decorate our candle holders as it dries quickly and gives a hard wearing finish.

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Candle Holders

You can use a pointed tool to make all sorts of patterns on the dough. Make sure that you press the tool into the dough firmly and quite deep or the holes will close up during baking.

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How To Make Candle Holders Instructions

how to make a candle holder step 1 Roll out the dough to a thickness of about 8mm (1/4“).
how to make a candle holder step 2 Place the candle on the dough, leave a gap of at least 1cm (1/2“) all the way round the candle. Use the plain round cookie cutter or glass to cut a circle.
how to make a candle holder step 3 Roll out a length of dough to wrap around the candle.
how to make a candle holder step 4 Join the ends using water and a knife.
how to make a candle holder step 5 Make a hole using a pointed tool.

Insert a bead into the hole.

how to make a candle holder step 6 You can decorate the dough any way you like. Here we have added a pattern of dots all around each bead. Bake in the oven following the instructions below. Once fully baked you can paint if you wish. Finish with two coats of varnish to make sure the dough is sealed and moisture can’t get in.

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Baking Your Salt Dough

Bake in the oven at 100oC for around 12 hours depending on the thickness of the dough. The dough should be completely solid when baked properly. You can test a piece by trying to insert the tip of a safety pin into the bottom of the candle holder, if the pin pushes into the dough easily then continue baking. Another test is to gently tap the bottom of the candle holder with your finger, it should sound hollow if thoroughly dried.

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tealight candle holder made with salt dough



Salt Dough Art Beads Instructions

dough art colored dough step 1 Make two small balls of different colored salt dough.
dough art colored dough step 2 Squash the balls into each other.
dough art colored dough step 3 Twist the colored dough carefully to blend the colors.
dough art colored dough step 4 Roll into a ball.

If you mix the dough too much you will end up with a ball of just one color.

dough art colored dough step 5 Use a cocktail stick to make a hole in the bead.
dough art colored dough step 7


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Baking Salt Dough Art Beads

Bake in the oven at 100oC for around 3 – 4 hours depending on the thickness of the dough. The dough should be completely solid when baked properly. You can test a piece by trying to insert the tip of a safety pin into the bead, if the pin pushes into the dough easily then continue baking. Another test is to tap the bead on the top of the cooker, it should sound hollow if baked thoroughly.

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bead necklace

dough art spheres






You will need to round the bead again once it is on the stick. Bake in the oven following the instructions below. Once fully baked you can paint if you wish. Finish with two coats of varnish to make sure the dough is sealed and moisture can’t get in.



What you will need:
Flower Paste (colour of choice)
Rolling board
Softening pad
Ball or bone tool
Small sharp scissors
Fine stamens
28g white wire
24g wire
White stem tape
Green stem tape
Wooden pointed dowel or Orchard pin
Cocktail stick
Glue of choice
Dusting colours and brushes
Stigma & Stamens
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For the stigma, take a tiny piece of paste and roll into a ball. Dip the very end of a 1/4 length piece of 28g white wire into your chosen glue and attach the ball of paste, pinching it on to the wire and rolling the base between your finger and thumb to leave a bulbous end. If you wish to put a tiny hook in the end of the wire first you can, but I find this is not necessary.
The stigma on these flowers can have either three or six fronds at the end. Your choice. Cut into the paste in three equal segments, and if you choose six, cut those three segments in half again. Set aside to dry.
For the stamens, roll 3 tiny balls of paste, and using 3 very fine manufactured stamens with the ends dipped in glue, attach the balls of paste. Roll the paste down onto the stamens, so you have a very fine sausage and flatten slightly. Set aside to dry.
 When the stigma and stamens are dry, arrange the stamens around the stigma, and tape down the wire starting about half an inch below the stamen heads using half width white stem tape.  Make as many of these as you need for the open flowers and leave to one side till ready to use.
Making the flower
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 Roll a malteser sized piece of paste into a ball, and then shape into a teardrop. Push a cornflour dusted sharp ended dowel (or the orchard pin) into the fatter end of the paste, pushing it quite far down into the centre. Twist the dowel inside the paste to make sure it does not stick.
Remove the dowel from the paste, and using your sharp scissors make six cuts in the paste trying to keep them as equal as possible.
Gently pinch the cut edges together to get rid of the squareness of the petals, and then using your finger and thumb above and below the petals, flatten and pull them to elongate the petals as shown.
 Transfer the flower to the edge of your softening pad, and using your ball or bone tool, stretch and widen the petals further. Then using a cocktail stick, place each petal over your forefinger and starting in the centre of the petal, roll the cocktail stick from side to side to further thin the petals.
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 Turn the flower upside down, and draw the petals downwards, at the same time tease 3 alternate petals into the centre of the flower, so the appearance is of three inner petals and 3 outer petals. Turn up again, and gently tease the three outer petals into a curve, as shown.
Take your prepared stamens and tape in an extra 28g wire for strength. Moisten the throat of the flower with a very small amount of sugar glue and feed the wire down into the throat of the flower. The petals will flop over at this stage so you will need to hang the flower upside down to dry.
Unopened flowers are made in exactly the same way, but leave the petals closed. You can insert a hooked 26g wire into the throat of these, and if you close the tips of the petals, you do not need to add the stamens, as they will not be seen.
For the calyx
 Form two tiny teardrops from green paste. Flatten slightly with your rolling pin, and transfer to your softening pad. Using your ball or bone tool, gently cup them.
 Moisten the base of your flower with sugar glue and attach the two pieces of paste as shown.
For the buds
 The buds should be made in various sizes, and its a good idea to start with a piece of paste slightly smaller than the piece you used to make your open flowers, and use a little less paste every time for each of the others. Roll the paste into a teardrop first and then give the bulbous end a slight rounded point. Mark the bud into 3 using a craft knife or palette knife, insert a hooked wire into the base and add a calyx in the same way as for the flower. The wires you use for the buds will be dependent on the size of the buds you make, and should be strong enough that they will hold the weight of the buds without flopping over.
Finishing the spray
 Make as many flowers and buds as you would like to have in your spray, and gently dust the flowers and buds with your chosen colour. Dust the calyx and dust slightly up the larger of the buds with a gentle green of your choice. Dust the smaller buds completely green. Steam to set the colour.  (Although the photograph shows these flowers and buds as being very shiny after steaming, they are still tacky at this stage and will lose the glazed appearance once fully dry)
Take a piece of 24g wire and using 1/2 width green stem tape, tape the smallest of your buds at the very end of the wire first, followed by the next smallest, and so on till you have as many buds on the spray as you wish, Tape any unopened flowers next, followed by the open flowers.
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 here’s the list of items needed :

small ball of  Dough

13 nos. of 1.5 inch of fine wire

1 no. of 4 inch stiff wire

Floral tape (green)

Small thin pencil or anything with sharp end

Roller, cutter, sponge, water, brush, Styrofoam block


First, bend the end of the fine wires like this.

Then, prepare the flower’s stem. Tape three wires together.

Continue taping the wires below, leaving about 1/4 inch space in between. After all the wires have been taped, stick it to the stiff 4 inch wire. Bend all the fine wires to resemble the actual flower. It should look like the picture below.

Now, to prepare Lily of the Valley flowers. Roll the Dough to about 1/4 inch thickness. Cut out 13 number of flowers. These flowers are very tiny.

Do this with the sharp end of roller or pencil. Thin the edges of the petal by slightly pressing it upwards on the roller. (I rub my fingers with some shortening.) Try to get as close as to how the real flower looks like. Leave the base thick or else we won’t be able to stick it to the stem.


Once all the flowers are completed, attach them to the stem by simply pushing it into the end of the fine wires. Before that, wet the fine wires with water first. If the base is too thin, drop a tiny round Dough into the flower and press down. The end of the fine wire should be visible slightly in the flower. Stick the flowers into the styrofoam and let it dry completely.

That’s the basic of making Lily of the Valley.

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